The Heian Period – One of the Most Elegant and Refined Eras in Japanese History
- by MaedaYumiko
- 4 min reading time
In a previous blog post, I briefly mentioned the clothing worn by the Hina dolls displayed during the Japanese Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day) festival: the Jūnihitoe, worn by the female doll, and the Sokutai, the formal garment of the male doll. Both of these were court costumes worn by nobles during the Heian period.
Personally, I feel that the Heian period (794–1185) was one of the most elegant and refined eras in Japanese history. At the imperial court, literature and the arts flourished, and a unique culture of fashion also developed. It must have been a time filled with beauty, sophistication, and aesthetic sensitivity.
The Jūnihitoe is often understood as a “robe of twelve layers.” However, the name does not necessarily mean that exactly twelve kimono were worn. The number twelve is more symbolic, representing many layers worn on top of each other. It was a court garment made up of several layers of robes.
One particularly fascinating element of this clothing is called “Kasane no Irome,” the art of layering colors. By combining different colored fabrics, beautiful color harmonies were created.
For example:
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Pink reminiscent of cherry blossoms
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Green symbolizing fresh spring leaves
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Red and orange inspired by autumn foliage
These color combinations were carefully chosen so that they would appear beautifully at the sleeves or the hem of the garment. When the layered colors subtly appear, they create a striking and elegant visual effect.
The great variety of these combinations also shows how many different shades exist within Japanese culture. What fascinates me especially are the names of these colors.
For example:
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Usugunjō (light ultramarine blue)
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Momoiro (peach pink)
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Ochiguriiro (the color of ripe chestnuts)
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Fujiiro (wisteria violet)
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Tsukishiro (moon white)
Many of these color names originate from nature. Even when spoken aloud, they have a gentle and almost poetic sound. For people of that time, nature was a very familiar part of everyday life, and many colors were inspired directly by observations of the natural world. When I imagine this world, it is easy to picture how refined and harmonious the aesthetic sense of the Heian period must have been.
The formal attire worn by male nobles was the Sokutai. Compared with the Jūnihitoe, there were fewer variations in color, but the color of the garment indicated the rank and status of the wearer within court society.
Relationships between men and women during this time were also quite interesting. Women rarely showed their faces in public, so men and women often did not see each other directly.
There was a form of marriage in which the man visited the woman at her residence during the night. This is sometimes referred to as a “visiting marriage.” Because women usually remained behind curtains or screens, men often could not clearly see their faces. It is said that a man might catch a glimpse of the layered colors at the hem of a woman's Jūnihitoe and think, “She must have a wonderful sense of aesthetics.”
Likewise, a woman might form an impression of a man from the elegance of his clothing.
Afterward, the two often exchanged letters — not ordinary letters, but waka poetry. Through these poetic messages, they gradually came to know one another and developed feelings for each other. This also reflects the romantic culture of the period. By reading the famous classical work “The Tale of Genji” (Genji Monogatari), one can gain insight into the lives and relationships of the courtly society of that time.
People of the Heian period also placed great importance on divination and astrology. Sometimes they even decided whether to leave the house on a particular day based on such predictions.
When we look at all of these aspects together, it becomes clear that the Heian period was an exceptionally rich era — not only in fashion, but also in aesthetics, culture, and a deep appreciation of nature.
Of course, the court fashion of a thousand years ago has not remained unchanged. However, its spirit continues to live on. Even though forms and styles have evolved over time, the refined aesthetic sensibility of the Heian period can still be felt in modern kimono.
The beauty and cultural spirit of this thousand-year-old court tradition still live on today — quietly and elegantly — within the kimono.
Image: Scene from The Tale of Genji (“Wakamurasaki”), Edo period (Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons).