More Than Just Silk – The Diverse Materials of Japanese Kimono
- by MaedaYumiko
- 6 min reading time
Kimono are not exclusively made of silk. Depending on the era, season, and intended use, cotton, asa, artificial silk, rayon, and polyester were also utilized. This article discusses the different properties of these fabrics, their historical significance, and why the value of a kimono does not depend solely on the material name.
Kimono Materials – More Than Just Silk
This time, I want to talk about the different materials used for kimonos.
When most people think of kimonos, silk probably comes to mind first. Others might think of cotton and yukata, the light Japanese summer garments.
However, kimonos were not exclusively made of silk. Depending on the era, season, and purpose, cotton, various plant fibers, artificial silk, rayon, and today even polyester were also used.
The material not only influences the appearance of a kimono. It also determines how the fabric feels, how it drapes, how it reflects light, and the overall effect of the garment when worn.
Silk – Many Different Textures and Qualities
Many antique kimonos and haoris were made of silk.
But not all silk is the same. Some silk fabrics are soft and flowing, while others have more body. Some have a fine sheen, while others appear more matte, dry, or slightly textured.
These differences arise not only from the quality of the fiber. The thickness and twist of the threads, the weaving method, and the further processing of the fabric also play an important role.
Therefore, Japanese silk fabrics can feel distinctly different from the silk commonly found in Europe.
Age also changes a fabric. Antique silk can become particularly soft over time, but in other cases, it can also become somewhat firmer or more brittle. Storage, humidity, and previous finishing treatments can also play a role.
Many people appreciate silk for its smooth feel and pleasant sensation on the skin. Some customers consciously choose silk for this very reason.
However, how pleasant a material feels on the skin is individual. Dyes, lining fabrics, friction, and the condition of an older garment can also influence the wearing experience.
Summer Kimono – Lightweight Silk Weaves
Summer kimonos can also be made of silk.
Typical examples are Ro and Sha. These are not separate fibers, but rather light, sometimes transparent weaves.
Due to small gaps in the weave, these fabrics appear airy and allow more air to pass through. Their delicate transparency is part of the special charm of Japanese summer clothing.
Cotton – Not Just for Yukata
Cotton is primarily known for yukata. However, it was also used in Japan for everyday kimonos.
Older Japanese cotton fabrics sometimes feel different from cotton fabrics commonly found in Europe. This is mainly due to the thickness of the yarns, the weaving method, the dyeing, and the surface treatment.
Some fabrics are firm and robust, while others are soft and supple. Cotton fabrics worn for a particularly long time can develop a special softness and depth.
Asa – Traditional Japanese Plant Fibers
Various plant fibers were used early on in Japan for summer clothing. In Japanese, they are often grouped under the collective term Asa.
However, Asa should not automatically be equated with linen.
Linen is made from flax. For traditional Japanese fabrics, other plants were also used, such as ramie and historically also hemp.
These fabrics are often breathable, dry to the touch, and pleasantly cool. Depending on the region and manufacturing method, they can have a fine transparency, a firm body, or a slightly irregular structure.
Artificial Silk, Rayon, and Polyester
In older kimonos and haoris, one occasionally finds so-called artificial silk.
The historical Japanese term for it is Jinken. This referred to fibers that were developed to imitate the luster and drape of natural silk.
Today, such fabrics are often classified in the rayon or viscose family. However, since historical terms were not always used completely uniformly, Jinken cannot always be assigned to just one modern fiber type without further examination.
Artificial silk is sometimes automatically considered less valuable. But the value of a kimono does not depend solely on the material name.
Among older fabrics made of artificial silk or rayon, there are very beautiful qualities with a fine sheen, soft drape, and pleasant feel. Age, pattern, dyeing, weaving technique, rarity, and condition also contribute to the value of a piece.
Polyester fabrics also differ greatly in quality.
At the word polyester, some people think of thin, stiff, and costume-like fabrics. However, there are also high-quality polyester fabrics specifically developed for kimonos.
They can have a pleasant weight, a soft drape, and a subtle sheen. In the Japanese kimono trade, the term Jō-polyester or simply Jō-poly is sometimes used colloquially for this. However, this is not an officially defined quality level.
High-quality polyester kimonos are often easier to care for, less prone to wrinkles, and more resistant to rain and stains.
Of course, a thin, inexpensive polyester fabric cannot be equated with a carefully manufactured kimono fabric.
How Uchia Checks Materials
At Uchia, I check the material and condition of each individual piece based on my experience with kimonos in Japan.
Additionally, I incorporate the knowledge of trustworthy Japanese kimono dealers, kimono sellers, and other experts.
If a material cannot be clearly identified, I look not only at its luster and feel. I also examine the weave structure, the drape of the fabric, the threads, and, if possible, the reverse side of the fabric.
If necessary, I use a microscope or perform a burn test for fiber identification with an already detached, very small thread.
Nevertheless, a 100% certain identification is not always possible.
Blended fabrics or fabrics where warp and weft threads consist of different materials are particularly difficult. Aging and previous finishing treatments can also complicate the assessment.
If a material cannot be unambiguously determined, I state this openly and honestly at Uchia.
The Value of a Kimono Does Not Only Depend on Silk
Silk is a beautiful material with special properties. But a kimono is not automatically worthless just because it is not made of silk.
Cotton, Asa, artificial silk, rayon, and high-quality polyester can also possess a special quality and a story of their own.
The luster of old artificial silk, the softness of long-worn cotton, the cool texture of an Asa weave, or the easy care of a high-quality polyester fabric – each material has its own charm.
Therefore, several things are important for evaluating a kimono: the quality of the fabric, the weaving and dyeing technique, the pattern, the age, the rarity, and the condition.
At Uchia, I don't want to judge a garment solely by its material name. Equally important are its feel, its manufacturing, its original purpose, and the history that the fabric has carried within it for many years.
Every kimono and every haori has its own character.