What is Shitsuke Ito? Kimono threads explained
- by MaedaYumiko
- 2 min reading time
Many people wonder if a kimono with threads is not yet finished. However, these so-called Shitsuke-ito can be a sign of particularly good condition.
Shitsuke ito are temporary threads used in traditional Japanese kimono. Many people wonder if they should remove them before wearing a kimono.
When I sell at markets, I am often asked about the fine white threads that are still visible on some kimonos.
These are called Shitsuke-ito (仕付糸).
"Isn't it finished yet?" I am sometimes asked then.
Quite the opposite – it's actually a good sign.
Time permitting, I remove these threads before selling.
However, on items at the market, they may still be present, and in that case, I ask customers to remove them themselves before wearing.
Interestingly, in Japan, when selling used kimonos or haori (traditional jackets worn over kimonos), it is often even preferred if the Shitsuke-ito are still present.
The reason for this is that these threads are attached when a kimono is finished.
This means that while a garment may be used, it may have been hardly worn and carefully stored for a long time – an indication of very good condition.
These threads can also be reattached after professional cleaning.
In Japan, there is a special cleaning method called Arai-hari (洗い張り): the kimono is completely taken apart, washed as fabric, and then re-sewn. In this process, the Shitsuke-ito are often reattached.
The presence of these threads does not necessarily mean that a kimono is new, but it can be an indication that it has not been worn for a long time and has been well cared for. In this article, we explain what they are and why they matter.
But what are these threads actually for?
Similar to the basting threads in new suits, they help to preserve the shape of the garment.
Since kimonos and haori are stored folded like origami, the Shitsuke-ito prevent unwanted creases or folds from forming.
Even these threads themselves can be very interesting.
They differ depending on the age of the kimono, and these differences are clearly visible when they are removed.
With antique kimonos, almost everything is handmade – and of course, that also applies to the Shitsuke-ito.
You can feel the fine craftsmanship, and sometimes it almost seems a shame to remove them.
Nevertheless, these threads are always removed before wearing.
Therefore, I always remove them for online shop orders, even if they are still visible in the photos.
Even a little knowledge of such details can change the way you look at kimonos – and perhaps help you discover a very special piece.