What is a Haori? The Japanese kimono jacket explained
- by MaedaYumiko
- 6 min reading time
A haori is not a refashioned kimono robe, but a traditional Japanese jacket that was worn over a kimono. In this post, I will explain what a haori is, how it is worn, and how you can style it in a modern way today.
What is a Haori? A Japanese jacket worn over a kimono
In this article, I want to write about the Haori.
At markets, I'm often asked:
"Is that a long kimono that has been shortened or altered?"
The answer is: No. A Haori is not a repurposed kimono, but a separate garment. It was originally made to be worn over a kimono – like a Japanese jacket or a light coat.
In Japanese, the word is very descriptive: haoru means "to throw something over" or "to put something over one's shoulders". From this comes the word Haori. So it is a garment that one places over one's clothes.
When kimonos were still more commonly worn in everyday life in Japan, the Haori served, depending on the situation, as protection against the cold, as outerwear, or even as part of a more formal wardrobe. Haori are made from various materials, for example, silk, rayon, linen, or wool. With newer pieces, as with modern kimonos, polyester is also frequently found.
The difference between Kimono and Haori
At first glance, a Haori resembles a kimono. The shape is related, but the way it is worn is different.
A kimono is worn overlapped and closed at the front. The left side lies over the right side.
A Haori, on the other hand, is not overlapped at the front. It remains open. The collar falls straight from top to bottom, and the front generally remains open.
Small loops are located at about chest height. These loops are called "chi" in Japanese and serve to attach the Haori-Himo – small cords or ties with which the Haori is loosely fastened at the front.
In a previous post, I already showed how to tie a Haori-Himo. Important: The Haori-Himo is not meant to close the Haori tightly. It only loosely holds the two front sides in shape so that they fall parallel to each other and the Haori remains open.
Why is a Haori not fully closed at the front?
Perhaps you ask yourself:
Why does the Haori actually remain open?
I think that is precisely where part of the beauty of Japanese clothing lies.
Traditionally, the kimono, the obi belt, and other small elements like the obi-jime are worn under the Haori. The Haori does not completely cover these things but allows them to remain visible. This creates an interplay of colors, patterns, and layers.
In Japanese clothing, there has long been a special joy in combining layers and colors. Even with the famous Jūnihitoe, the multi-layered court attire of the Heian period, the effect of the superimposed colors played an important role.
So, the Haori is not simply a jacket meant to provide warmth. It is part of an entire outfit. It complements the kimono without completely covering it.
There are also Japanese outerwear pieces that close at the front
Of course, in traditional Japanese clothing, there are also jackets and coats that close more completely at the front.
One example is the Michiyuki. This is a Japanese outdoor coat. It does not have a Haori-Himo, but is closed at the front with a fastener, often with hooks or snaps. Nevertheless, the collar area remains visible, so that the kimono and the combination underneath continue to be part of the overall look.
Another garment is the Dōchūgi. It is worn overlapped at the front and closed with ties, similar to a kimono. This makes it look more like a coat and it was primarily worn outdoors, for example, to protect against cold or dust.
There are also raincoats for kimonos. These are usually cut longer and close more tightly at the front to protect the kimono as much as possible from rain.
So you see: In Japanese clothing, there are various types of outerwear, each with its own shape and function. The Haori is among them the open jacket, where the layers underneath remain visible and are part of the overall style.
Different types of Haori
Haori themselves also come in many variations.
For example, there is the Kuro-Haori, a black Haori, which was often worn for more formal occasions, especially during the Shōwa period. There are Eba-Haori, where the pattern extends across the seams like a continuous image. There are longer Haori, called Naga-Haori, men's Haori, and also shorter, more informal Haori that were worn more at home or in inns.
Especially with vintage and antique Haori, one often finds beautiful lining fabrics. From the outside, these patterns are barely visible, but inside, entire landscapes, animals, plants, or very fine graphic patterns can be hidden. This inner beauty is one of the special qualities of Haori for me.
Certain techniques and fabric types also make Haori special. If you are interested in the Japanese Shibori dyeing technique, for example, you can find my selected Shibori Haori Collection here.
How to wear Haori today
Today, a Haori, of course, doesn't just have to be worn over a kimono.
You can wear it over a dress, over a T-shirt, a blouse, or with simple trousers. It thus becomes a light jacket that can be easily integrated into modern clothing.
If you want to discover a Haori for yourself, you can find my selected collection of Vintage Haori from Japan here.
Even an open Haori can be styled in different ways. For example, I really like it when a Haori is loosely fastened with a narrow leather belt. This is not a traditional way of wearing it, but precisely because of this, it acquires a new, modern effect.
A Michiyuki, i.e., a Japanese coat closed at the front, can also be interestingly combined with modern clothing. If a blouse, a turtleneck sweater, or a piece of jewelry remains slightly visible at the collar, a special look is created that clearly differs from ordinary jackets.
A Haori is part of traditional Japanese clothing, but at the same time, it can be wonderfully translated into today's everyday life and modern fashion.
In every Haori lie material, pattern, color, time, and the traces of previous wearers.
For me, a Haori is therefore not just a jacket. It is a garment in which much of the Japanese aesthetic of dressing becomes visible – and I am happy when these pieces are worn and appreciated in new ways today.